Mosaic Potholder/Washcloth Pattern

This geometric potholder (or washcloth) has concentric half-squares on one side and stripes on the other.  Make quick gifts while trying out a new crochet technique!

I designed this simple, free pattern to better show people the concepts of what I call mosaic crochet before they decide to purchase one of my patterns featuring this technique (click here to see them all).  I also include detailed videos to demonstrate the pattern techniques.  Each video is linked in its location in the pattern, but you can also see the entire playlist here.  Try out the pattern, and let me know what you think!

Gauge & Size
Gauge is not critical in this pattern unless you want to make it a specific size.  If you're using scrap yarn, I suggest using an appropriate hook size for your yarn thickness and allowing the potholder/washcloth to grow or shrink accordingly.  Gauge is 12 stitches and 15-16 rows of sc = 4 inches square.  The finished size is about 6 3/4 inches wide by about 5 1/2 inches long.

Design Notes
Color work:  When changing yarn colors, loop in the new color as the last “pull through” of the previous stitch to create better color borders.  Do not cut each color until the end.  Every other row, we drop a color behind the work and pick up the new color from the previous rows.

Blocking:  Blocking (according to your yarn type) is strongly encouraged as it makes for a much more professional-looking piece.

Even Rows:  All of the even-numbered rows are return rows for a particular color, and can be simplified to this:  ch 1 before first stitch, ch 3 across any ch-3 space, and sc in every sc or ht.  The detailed instructions are still included as a double-check.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

The stitches in this pattern are fairly basic, except for the special half treble crochet (ht).  The ht is how we make the vertical stripes in the pattern.  We perform this stitch into stitches from previous rows.  

As you make the pattern, you will chain stitch across areas where you are in the wrong color for two rows. Then, on the next row when you are in the “right” color, you work your ht into the stitches 3 rows below the current row (always working in front of the chains).  The net effect is that the potholder will be the concentric half-squares on the front side and stripes on the back side. 

Why “half-treble”?  I’ve never heard of that stitch.  When I first started working mosaic crochet, I used dc as other patterns suggested.  I’ve found that those stitches are too short and thus cause curling.  Triple/treble crochet is a bit too high, and half-treble was just right.  Feel free to experiment with stitch height.

I created a video for how to make the Special Half-Treble Crochet (ht) stitch, which you can watch here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9oNoywwc1U.

Abbreviation = Stitch

ch = chain

ht = Special half-treble crochet (see video) – work in front of ch-3’s into the stitch 3 rows below.  Yo twice, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

st = stitch

yo = yarn over

Motif Graphic

This graphic is provided for those of you who work better with pictures than text, like me.  Any square that is blank is simply a sc stitch. The ht stitches are worked into the sc’s 3 rows below the current row, and always worked in front of the chains of the in-between rows (watch the video).  Row 1 starts at the bottom with Color A, which is grey in this graphic.

Pattern

Beginning Chain:  Ch 19 with the I hook. 

Row 1:  Using the H hook, sc in second ch from hook and across (18 sc).  Ch 1, turn.

Row 2:  Sc across.  In last st, join Color B in last pull-through.  Drop Color A, but do not cut as we will pick it up on future rows (here and throughout pattern).   Ch 1, turn.

Row 3 (watch video):  In Color B, sc 8, ch 3 and skip 2 st, sc 8.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 4 (watch video):  Sc 8, ch 3 and skip 2 st, sc 8, changing to Color A in last pull-through (just pick it up from the lower rows, and make sure not to pull too tight).  Ch 1, turn.

Row 5 (watch video for rows 5 and 6):  In Color A, sc 6, ch 3 and skip 2 st, ht 2, ch 3 and skip 2 st, sc 6.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 6:  Sc 6, ch 3 and skip 2 st, sc 2, ch 3 and skip 2 st, sc 6, picking up Color B in last st.  Ch 1, turn.

Note:  Now that you have the hang of it, when you see “ch 3”, you will know to either skip 2 st or skip a previous ch 3.  It won’t be written fully out, which should make it simpler for you to read the pattern also.

Row 7 (watch video for rows 7 and 8):  In Color B, sc 4, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, sc 4.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 8:  Sc 4, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 4, picking up Color A in last st.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 9 (watch video for rows 9 and 10):  In Color A, sc 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, sc 2.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 10:  Sc 2, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 2, picking up Color B in last st.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 11 (watch video for rows 11 and 12):  In Color B, sc 2, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, sc 2.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 12:  Sc 4, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 4, picking up Color A in last st.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 13 (watch video for rows 13 and 14):  In Color A, sc 4, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, sc 4.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 14:  Sc 6, ch 3, sc 2, ch 3, sc 6, picking up Color B in last st.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 15 (watch video):  In Color B, sc 6, ht 2, ch 3, ht 2, sc 6.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 16:  Sc 8, ch 3, sc 8, picking up Color A in last st.  Fasten off Color B.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 17:  In Color A, sc 8, ht 2, sc 8.  Ch 1, turn.

Row 18:  Sc across.  Fasten off.  Weave in all ends.

If desired, add a border of sc around the entire work (watch video).  For the sides, use about one sc per row.  I ended up using 3-4 sc per 4 rows as one per every row stretched out the sides too much.  Sc 3 in each corner.

Square Key Scarf Pattern Release!

Another pattern release!  I'm on a roll now.  :)  Check out the photos for my newest design, the square key unisex scarf.  Unique Greek key motif on one side and stripes with texture on the other.  And one super-cute canine model.

Pattern can be found on both Etsy and Ravelry.  Cheers!

L.Y.L.A.S. Cowls Pattern Just Released!!

Love You Like A Sister...

The photos are finally in, so you can now check out my new L.Y.L.A.S. pattern!  Grab a crochet friend for this fun project (or just make two if you don't have a best crochet friend).  :)

You can find the pattern in my Etsy shop and also on Ravelry.  Enjoy!

It's Crochet Season!!

The heat index might be 100 degrees here in New Orleans, but I realize the rest of the northern hemisphere "might" have started cooling off by now.  I'm definitely seeing a pick up in crochet activity, so I figured it was time to get the yarn out of the attic, crank up the air conditioning, and start moving on some projects that have been hibernating during our 10-month long summer.  All for you, my fans.  You who live in cooler climates.  Hopefully a few sales will help accommodate for my higher electric bill to satisfy the masses with more patterns.  :)

So, what do you guys want this season?  Right now I'm working on a LYLAS cowl... yep, you heard right... Love You Like A Sister cowl.  It's actually two interlocking cowls that you can work on with a friend or simply make 2 and share with your non-crocheting best friend like me.

THAT should be coming soon.  But, what should come NEXT?  Give me some ideas.  I have a few, but I'd like the People to have a say.

Some ideas I'm contemplating right now:

• Another man scarf.  You guys seem to love these.  Maybe there aren't enough in the marketplace.  The new idea is more drapey, single-color, and light to show off a textured pattern.
• Fleur de lis beanie hat using cables.  I have yet to invent how this would actually work, but whatever will help my Saints, I will do...
• Poop bag holder for my fellow dog-owners.  I need some fun ideas for this though.  No serious poop bag holders here.
• Pillow cover with a textured scene, and eventually a complimentary set of squares that could be made into an afghan.

Which ones do you love/hate?  Any special requests?  Special requests that get made will get a free copy of that pattern or any other in my etsy shop.  :)

Phone Cozy

I had some leftover awesome-looking sari yarn and thought my phone looked cold even though I live in New Orleans. Alas, my creativity led me to do something about both problems at once.

 

Yarn:  I used Berocco Idol which is a variegated sari yarn.  It is theoretically bulky, but I found that it worked up more like an aran weight or heavy worsted weight yarn.  You can adjust the pattern to match your yarn weight (add/remove beginning chains and add/remove rows).

Materials:  Crochet hook size US H (5.0 mm) or appropriate size for your yarn, yarn needle (to weave in ends)

Abbreviations and Special Stitches 
ch = Chain 
dc = Double crochet
hdc = Half double crochet
sc = Single crochet
sc2tog = Single crochet 2 together
sl st = Slip stitch
st = Stitch 

Note:  Throughout pattern, the chains at the beginning of a row do not count as the first stitch.

Main Body (worked in the round)
Beginning chain:  Ch 10.
Row 1:  Sc 2nd ch from hook and across (in back loops).  Sc 3 more times in last ch.  Rotate to work back across in the front loops to the beg ch.  Sc 2 more times in the beg ch. (Net stitches:  4 total sc in the beginning and ending ch, and 2 sc on either side of each of the other ch for 24 total sc). Sl st to top of beginning sc.
Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in same st and around, sl st to top of beg sc (24 sc).
*** After row 2, test the size of your cozy by inserting your phone.  If it is too big, start over with a smaller beg ch.  If it is too small, start over with a larger beg ch.***

Row 3:  Repeat row 2.
Row 4:  Ch 2, hdc in same st and around, sl st to top of beg hdc (24 hdc).
Row 5:  Repeat row 2.
Row 6:  Ch 3, dc in same st and around, sl st to top of beg dc (24 dc).
Rows 7-14:  Repeat rows 3-6 two times.
Row 15:  Repeat row 2.  Do not fasten off - continue with Flap row 1...

Flap (worked flat)
Flap row 1:  Ch 1, sc in same st and next 9 st (10 sc).  Ch 2, turn.
Flap row 2:  Hdc across (10 hdc).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap rows 3-6:  Repeat rows 1-2 two times.
Flap row 7:  Sc across first 8 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (9 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 8:  Sc across first 7 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (8 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 9:  Sc across first 6 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (7 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 10:  Sc across first 5 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (6 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 11:  Sc across first 4 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (5 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 12:  Sc across first 3 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (4 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 13:  Sc across first 2 st then sc2tog in last 2 st (3 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 14:  Sc in first st then sc2tog (2 st).  Ch 1, turn.
Flap row 15:  Sc2tog.  Do not fasten off.  Make the wrap cord by chaining for about 1 yard.  Fasten off.  Keep end tail to tie off pom-pom.

Pom-Pom (See photos below)

1. You may want to practice with junk yarn first.  Cut a piece of yarn at least 6 inches long and set aside.  
2. Find an object whose circumference is a bit more than half of what you want the diameter of your pom-pom to be.  Wrap yarn around it many times (20+) and then cut the end. 
3. Carefully slip all the yarn off the object and use the previously cut yarn length to tie tightly across the middle of the loops.  Knot one side then loop back and knot the other side too for insurance.  
4. Now snip all the loops.  You will have a scraggly looking pom-pom like the one below:
5. Trim all the ends EXCEPT the ends of your knot yarn until you have a nice, even pom-pom.  
6. Tie the knot yarn to the tail of your wrap cord then weave in/trim all ends.

 

 

New pattern release: Andras Man Scarf

I just released the Andras man scarf pattern on both Etsy and Ravelry.  Here are the photos - and yes, that is my dad.  I wanted to make him a special Christmas present that was stylish and represented our culture.  I hope you enjoy it too!

Hellas Cowl Pattern Release

I'm super excited about the release for this pattern - the thicker yarn and cowl design make it quicker and easier than the Hellas Scarf.  You can find it on both Ravelry and Etsy.  Also, I made a video tutorial for the one special stitch which can be found here.

Vieux Carré Towel

New pattern released on Etsy and Ravelry!

The Vieux Carré, or Old Square, is the original French name of the French Quarter in New Orleans. This towel was inspired by intricate old world details and luxury. The outer edging mimics picot stitches and fleur de lis. Set out a few of these in your guest bathroom when entertaining, or use pair it with bath products in a sumptuous gift basket.

This crochet pattern is written for the fingertip towel size, and instructions are included for how to modify for hand or bath towel size. Includes 3 photo tutorials for special stitches. Appropriate for a beginner who is confident in basic stitches and wants to try some new stitch motifs.

**NEW** You can now get patterns for this towel, the Spa washcloth and bath mitt, AND the Luxe washcloth and bath mitt in one discounted pattern pack.  Check it out here.

Team Colors Earflap Hat Pattern Release & Embroidery Tips

Represent your school!!  I just released the Team Colors Earflap hat on Etsy and Ravelry.

It uses half-double crochet and single crochet for an easy work-up.  Note that this pattern is for the base hat, NOT for the embroidery representing any particular team.  So, this blog post describes how I added my team embroidery so that you can get ideas on how you can customize your hat.

First, I found an image that I wanted to use and printed it out.  I reduced the size by making a copy and reducing it by using the copier setting (old school style).  Next, I used a thin, translucent paper to trace the image.  Actually, I used parchment paper, like the kind for cooking since I don't have fancy tracing paper or that special temporary fabric used for embroidery.

Let me take a time out to note that embroidering on crochet is an imperfect art.  The spaces between stitches can distort stitches.  I found that making a good image worked better by only embroidering the outline rather than filling it in.  For the embroidery masters out there, please chime in with tips.  My guess is sewing some fabric to the back of the forehead flap may make an improved embroidery "canvas".

Back to the instructions...  I cut out my traced image (keeping some border space) and placed it on top of the forehead flap where I wanted the final image to go and temporarily pinned it there.  Next, I used back stitch to embroider the outline of my design.

Finally, I carefully removed the tracing (parchment in my case) paper in small bits to ensure that I didn't distort any of the stitches.  I tested filling in the outline at this point but was not successful in producing something that I liked, so I kept it as an outline.  

I'd love to see your own results or hear your tips!

Pineapple Wrist Cuff #2

For ideas on ways to design your own unique pineapple cuffs from your favorite pineapple patterns, see this post:  Designing Pineapple Crochet Cuffs

Want to support independent designers? Consider purchasing a printer-friendly (pdf) version of this pattern on Etsy for a nominal amount. Or, bump up to a 3-pattern pack for crochet bracelets! 💗

Note:  Don’t skip the blocking!  It’s as simple as lightly steaming the work.  It takes less than one minute, and it will fix all those wavy/wobbly issues.  I promise!

Yarn:  I used J&P Coats Royale Fashion Crochet (Size 3), less than one skein.

Materials:  Crochet hook size US C (2.5mm), small yarn needle to weave in ends and sew on buttons, buttons (3 or more).

Gauge and size:  Gauge is not critical as the size is adjusted by adding or subtracting side border rows.  Start by working the first two rows.  If the work is too small, you can continue.  If the cuff is already too large, then you will have to tighten your stitches either (smaller hook, smaller yarn).  My version after adding the border is a curved 6.5 inches at the wrist, and wider on the part further up the arm.  My wrist is about 6 inches in diameter.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches 

ch = Chain sc = Single crochet
hdc = Half double crochet
dc = Double crochet
sl st = Slip stitch
st = Stitch
fan = 2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc all in one stitch

Pattern

Beginning chain:  Ch 38.

Row 1:  Sc in 2^nd ch from hook.  *(Ch 3, skip 3, sc, skip 4, 9 dc in next stitch, skip 4, sc, ch 3, skip 3, sc), repeat from * once.  Turn.

Row 2:  Ch 3, 2 dc in top of same sc, (ch 1, dc) in top of each previous dc (9 total), ch 1, fan in center sc stitch, (ch 1, dc) in top of each previous dc (9 total), ch 1, 3 dc in last sc.  Turn.

Row 3:  Ch 3, 2 dc in top of same dc, ch 1, skip the first dc of the pineapple and *(sc in next ch-1 space, ch 3), repeat from *6 times, sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, fan in ch-1 space of previous fan, ch 1, skip the first dc of the pineapple and *(sc in next ch-1 space, ch 3), repeat from *6 times, sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, 3 dc in top of last dc.  Turn.

Row 4:  Ch 3, 2 dc in top of same dc, ch 1, *(sc in ch-3 space, ch 3), repeat from * 5 times, sc in last ch-3 space, ch 1, fan in ch-1 space of previous fan, ch 1, *(sc in ch-3 space, ch 3), repeat from * 5 times, sc in last ch-3 space, ch 1, 3 dc in top of last dc.  Turn.

Row 5:  Repeat Row 4 except that the number of repeats will be reduced by 1 for each pineapple.

Row 6:  Repeat Row 4 except that the number of repeats will be reduced by 2 for each pineapple.

Row 7:  Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) all in same first st, ch 1, *(sc in ch-3 space, ch 3), repeat from * 2 times, sc in last ch-3 space, ch 1.  In ch-1 space of previous fan, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc).  Ch 1, *(sc in ch-3 space, ch 3), repeat from * 2 times, sc in last ch-3 space, ch 1, fan in top of last st.  Turn.

Row 8:  Ch 3, fan in ch-1 space of previous fan, ch 1, *(sc in ch-3 space, ch 3), repeat from * once, sc in last ch-3 space, ch 1, fan in ch-1 space of previous super-fan, ch 1, fan in next ch-1 space of super-fan.  Ch 1, *(sc in ch-3 space, ch 3), repeat from * once, sc in last ch-3 space, ch 1, fan in ch-1 space of previous fan, dc in last st.  Turn.

Row 9:  Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, fan in ch-1 space of previous fan, ch 1, sc in ch-3 space, ch 3, sc in ch-3 space, ch 1, fan, ch 1, fan, ch 1, fan, ch 1, sc in ch-3 space, ch 3, sc in ch-3 space, ch 1, fan, 3 dc in last st.  Turn.

Row 10:  Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc of fan), fan in first st, ch 1, fan, ch 1, sc in ch-3 space, ch 1, fan, ch 1.  All in next ch-1 space of center fan:  2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.  Ch 1, sc in ch-3 space, ch 1, fan, ch 1, fan in last st.  Turn.

Row 11:  Ch 1, sc in first st, *(ch 3, sc in next ch-1 space) all the way across.  Sc two more times in last st to create a corner and start the border on the sides and bottom.  Do not turn.

Border

Side 1:  Rotate the work 90 degrees so that you can now continue crocheting sc evenly along this side edge.  When you get to the end, ch 1, turn, and crochet the next row.  The side might be uneven so use various stitches (sl st, sc, hdc, dc) to even out the height (i.e., in valleys use taller stitches and on hills use shorter stitches).  When you get to the end, turn, 2 sc, make a button hole (ch and skip stitches according to the size of your button), sc to middle, make a button hole, sc to almost the end, make another button hole, sc to end.  Add 2-3 more sc in last stitch to create a corner.  Do not turn.

Bottom:  Rotate the work 90 degrees so you can now continue crocheting sc evenly along this bottom edge.  Add 2-3 more sc in last stitch to create a corner.  Do not turn.

Side 2:  Rotate the work 90 degrees so that you can now continue crocheting sc evenly along this side edge.  When you get to the end, ch 1, turn, and crochet the next row.  The side might be uneven so use various stitches (sl st, sc, hdc, dc) to even out the height (i.e., in valleys use taller stitches and on hills use shorter stitches).  When you get to the end, turn, and continue adding rows until the cuff is large enough for your wrist. 

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the buttons on with.  Steam/lightly block before adding buttons.

Pineapple Wrist Cuff #1

For ideas on ways to design your own unique pineapple cuffs from your favorite pineapple patterns, see this post:  Designing Pineapple Crochet Cuffs

New! Now available in a 3-pattern pack for crochet bracelets!

Click here to buy this pattern on Ravelry.
Click here to buy this pattern on Etsy.
Only want free patterns?  Here are two other bracelets which are free:  Pineapple Wrist Cuff #2 and Craft Bazaar Antique Lace.

While brainstorming new crochet cuff/bracelet ideas, I thought, why not use the classic pineapple pattern? I love crochet pineapples, but I never had a good use for them other than doilies, and, let’s face it, you can have too many doilies. 

Pattern uses size 3 thread, and requires 3 buttons (pearl suggested). Size is adjusted by adding or subtracting the basic crochet stitches at the beginning and end of each row or by extending side borders at the end. 

For troubleshooting or feedback, please contact me directly!

Note:  Don’t skip the blocking!  It’s as simple as lightly steaming the work.  It takes less than one minute, and it will fix all those wavy/wobbly issues.  I promise!

A tribute to Greece

For Thanksgiving this year, I am grateful that I'm finally finishing this design project.  I started on this journey when I made my father the Aztec Scarf by Amy O'Neill Houck (you can find my version here).  The double-sided design was so interesting to me that I started to wonder whether I could create any interesting patterns using the same technique.  I had already been playing with the idea of incorporating the Greek key or other Greek-inspired designs into one of my patterns.  This technique proved to be a winner.

Here is the finished project.  You can buy the pattern in my Etsy shop or on Ravelry.

Craft Bazaar Bracelet: Antique Lace

Want to support independent designers? Consider purchasing a printer-friendly (pdf) version of this pattern for a nominal amount. Or, bump up to a 3-pattern pack for crochet bracelets! 💗

I'm back at it!  My friend is participating in her school's craft bazaar, so I was inspired to create a few new patterns.  For those of you who are looking for patterns you can use to earn a few bucks, feel free to use these for your own craft bazaars as long as you give my blog credit.

For these bracelets, I was inspired by the Blueprint Crochet Julie Cuff that I made last year as a Christmas present - I thought why not make a whole series of these using crochet flowers and lace edgings?  Here is the pattern for my first lace crochet bracelet - I would love to see your interpretations!  Please let me know if you find any errors in the pattern.  I know a diagram a la Japanese crochet would be easier to follow, but hey it's a free pattern.

Yarn and notions:  I used  J&P Coats Fashion Crochet Thread (Royale), size 3.  Pearl button, about size 1/4 in.
Materials:  US size C (2.5 mm) crochet hook, and smaller yarn needle to weave in ends and join the button.
Gauge and size:  Gauge is not important for this pattern.  Measure the size of your wrist with measuring tape - make sure you stop slightly greater than half your wrist size from the center of your flower to the end of the strap you are making.  See pattern for details.

Abbreviations (American terms)
ch = Chain
dc = Double crochet
sc = Single crochet
sl st = Slip stitch
sp = Space (as in a chain space)
st = Stitch

Pattern
Flower and first strap
Beginning chain:  Ch 4, join with a sl st to beginning ch.
Row 1:  *Ch 3, dc three times in ring, ch 3, sc in ring, repeat from * 3 more times to make 4 petals.  Do not turn.
Row 2:  *Ch 4, skip all stiches in petal, sc in top of sc (on the other side of the first petal), repeat from * 3 more times.  We just made 4 chain spaces that will be the base for the next row of petals.  Do not turn.
Row 3:  *Sc in next ch-4 space, ch 3, dc six times in same space, ch 3, sc in same space, repeat from * 3 more times to make 4 larger petals.  Do not turn.
Row 4:  Similar to Row 2, we will make base chains that we can then build our bracelet straps from.  These base chains will be attached on either side of the petals, and also in the middle of the petal, but on the back side of course.  *Ch 3, go behind the petal to sc in the middle of the ch sp from Row 2 (halfway through the 6 dc's), ch 3, sc between the 2 sc's on the other side of the petal, repeat from * 3 more times.  Do not turn.
Row 5:  Sc four times in next sp, *sc in next sp, ch 3, sc in same sp, ch 3, sc in next sp, ch 3, sc in same sp**.  Sc four times in next sp, sc four times in next sp.  Repeat from * to ** once, sc four times in final sp, sl st to beg sc.  Do not turn.
Row 6:  Sl st in next 4 sc, sl st to sp, ch 1, sc, *ch 3, sc in next sp, repeat from * once, sl st to next sc, TURN.
Row 7:  Ch 1, sc in next sc, * ch 3, sc in sp, repeat from * once, ch 3, sl st in last sc, TURN.
Row 8:  Sl st to sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, * ch 3, sc in next sp, repeat from * once, sl st to last sc, TURN.
Rows 9-12:  Repeat rows 7 and 8 two more times.
Row 13:  Sl st to sc, sl st to sp, ch 1, sc in sp, ch 3, sc in next sp, sl st to final sc, TURN.
Row 14:  Ch 1, sc in sc, sc in sp, ch 3, sc in same sp, sc in last sc, TURN.
Repeat row 14 until strap is a little more than half the diameter of your wrist when you measure it from the middle of the flower. 
Fasten off, leaving a longer tail to join the button.  Join button not at the very tip, but about 1 row from the tip.

Second strap
With flower facing you and first strap hanging down, join thread/yarn on top of last sc before the spaces begin for the second strap.  Sl st to sp, ch 1, sc, *ch 3, sc in next sp, repeat from * once, sl st to next sc, TURN.
Repeat rows 7-14, and then repeat 14 until strap is long enough fit comfortably on your wrist when you use one of the existing lace holes to button it.
Fasten off, weave in ends.

Fun with crazy yarn

Thanks to after-Christmas sales coinciding with my birthday (and thus justification to buy something "just because", I finally was brave enough to acquire some Pagewood Farms U-Knitted Nations Handspun Bouquet.  It's super super bulky but the thickness varies drastically every 8 inches or so.  Also, it has what I like to call fun little pieces of "flair" every few feet - bits of yarn that look like little leaves or stems.  I got extra brave and bought the bright variegated color scheme.  After a bit of crochet fiddling, this is the cowl I ended up with:



(Sorry, I wasn't made up enough today to actually wear it in the photo).

I'm not sure when I will be brave enough to wear it - probably on a day when I am in great need of a sunny disposition and a smile. 

If you're a fellow crocheter who thought you couldn't really use this yarn, here is how I made the cowl work with just 1 skein and an S hook (19mm):

1. Ch 28, join with a sl st to beginning ch.
2. Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 1, *sc in next st, ch 1, repeat from * around, joining with a sl st to top of beg sc.
3. Repeat row 2 until desired height.

You have to manipulate the flowers a little so that they face the front, and you occasionally have to pull them through a loop but the hook and loops are so large that this isn't usually a problem.  You can budge the flowers a little bit in each direction if you need to optimize their location.  The stitches are a little difficult to recognize sometimes so this may be easier for a more experienced crocheter.

If you need to frog it, gently take it apart by manipulating with your fingers so it falls apart easily (no tugging!).  I think you may be able to get even more height by only working into the front or back loop, but I didn't like the way it looked on mine.  Let me know if you found a way to crochet this yarn too!